Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Don't Be Nervous!


A Makeup Artist should not only be able to do makeup on a face like their own.

I am always surprised, as a white woman in her 20's, when a non-white or mature client responds with pleasant surprise that I was able to do a makeup on them that they felt comfortable in. I wouldn't be much of an artist if I only knew how to do makeup on white women in their 20's, would I?

That being said, there are some common mistakes that I've witnessed with doing deeper skin tones and more mature skin, which gives reason to aforementioned nervousness.

Not having the right base for a black/south asian/mediterranean complexion will throw off the whole face, possibly leaving you with an ashy or orange subject. NG.
Many cosmetics companies aren't jumping to include a diverse color range in their bases but RCMA has a shade for ANYONE. You can even mix a shade if need be. There is no excuse for a Makeup Artist to not have makeup that works on any potential client.
Another product in particular that my 2nd in command at SVU introduced me to and that works for anyone is the Kett Sett No-Color setting powder. I looked at her like she was insane when she took it out to set a particularly dark toned actress's face - the powder is as white as newly fallen snow. But it blends into nothingness and sets like nobody's business. From Karen Elson to Alec Wek.

With a more mature face, you want everything to look soft, smooth and lifted. (And bring those lashes back) You want everything to point up. And using products that are too sparkly will enhance crepe-y or wrinkled skin and only serves to highlight signs of age. Eyeshadow with a soft, subtle shimmer (Shu Uemura and Lorac are good for this) work well to blend and soften lids. Think Vaseline on the lens.

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