So, one thing that I always have to take into consideration besides "does it look fabulous up close and under the lights" is "does it look fabulous (or fabulously gory and real) once the film stock is processed and color corrected?" For years on SVU, we were using a particular film stock that pops bright colors - especially pinks and reds - and makes them look fluorescent. Which makes fake blood look vivacious but sometimes can be tricky if an actor or actress has particularly rosy lips. Mariska naturally has the color lip that people buy lip stains to achieve. However, since she plays a detective on the beat, its not necessarily in character for Benson to have taken the time to paint her lips that stunning shade of vibrant burgundy-rose. Instead, we use nude (or as we say: "nudie") lipstick to make it look like she has no lipstick on at all. After 10 years of searching, the perfect lip combo for her is MAC Whirl lip pencil - the exact color of her lip - to define them, and either Shu Uemura BG934 or Cle Du Peau 121 Extra Silky lipsticks which have the perfect "nudie-ness" and moisture for natural, film stock/cop appropriate lips.
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