Expert Reviews

I am late on the band wagon for a great resource guide to the world of makeup and skin care product reviews.

Paula Begoun has a book that I have constantly passed by at the book store called Don't Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It always seemed like a losing proposition - a huge tome proposing to catalog the virtues and sins of every cosmetic on the market. With the speed that companies develop new product, the book is out of date before it goes to press!

WELL, last season Sharon Stone started reciting all these very informative insider facts she said she had learned them from Paula's book. E.g. Eye Cream is JUST regular cream in a smaller, more expensive jar. So I finally rushed to Amazon.com for the 8th edition of DGTTCCWOM.
It arrived and I pored over it. Her introduction and methods for testing are very interesting and honest. She is not wowed by packaging or marketing. Its: Does this product work or not?
Personally, I don't need as much help deciphering high and low quality makeup. I work with different products all day long and I can tell immediately if I like how an eyeshadow, foundation or lipstick applies and holds. What often does stymie me is skin care. The effect of a skin care product rather than a cosmetic is more often apparent after long term use.

Will the expensive eye cream fend off wrinkles 10 years down the road if I am consistent? Is it worth it to "invest" in your skin with an expensive night cream? Do the latest "it" ingredients really work better than Ponds Cold Cream or Noxema? Paula gets into the nitty gritty answering these types of questions. Often citing brands like Olay and Clinique as All-Stars and ripping skin care like Dior's for being overpriced, over fragranced and under ingrediented (that's now a word).

As I predicted, the book didn't have half of the product lines I use on a daily basis. However, this is the genius of her website. For an annual subscription fee, her website is continuously updated with pretty much every makeup and skin care line on the market. So if you are at the department store being tempted by a Dior creme for $275 that touts the rejuvenating effect of the whispers of fetal kittens, you can log on to her website, read the review, and then save yourself $275.

So, while I don't think the book is such a great investment, the website is something worth looking into if you, like me, find yourself susceptible to a shiny new jar of expensive miracle nothing.

Ruts

One thing that I try to avoid is a makeup rut. When you get stuck doing the same thing over and over again, you sometimes cant see that a look has started wearing you. I avoid this every season by purchasing one new item of makeup and designing a look around it for myself. Last season it was Smashbox Muse Blush Rush, a peachy coral blush that was warm and bright at the same time. So for that look, I layered on the mascara, put on a peachy lip stain and let the cheeks be the focus. For spring, I dyed my hair Red so I am making my makeup all about making sure my face doesn't wash out: Operation Bold Lashline: Armani Maestro Liquid Liner and L'oreal Voluminous Mascara in Carbon Black.
At work, as a Makeup Artist, it is even more important that I don't get stuck in a rut. At SVU we work so fast that we don't have a lot of time for makeup changes so most characters maintain the same makeup look throughout the show. This can turn pretty boring, however, when you do the same people's makeup the same way every day 9 months a year. So I like to joke (sort-of) with my actresses that I have had a "vision" about their makeup and so we should try something new. I have never had anyone say "no, no, lets stick with the same old thing" and its good for me because it forces me to see them in a fresh way.
The truth is that as I am falling asleep at night, I am often thinking of how I could tweak something, refine something, or incorporate a technique or product to improve the makeup. That's why I am only sort-of joking when I tell them I have had a vision - no need to have people worry that I am obsessed. Although I suppose the cat's out of the bag now. And I am lucky that i get to work on so many faces multiple times. Recently I changed Stephanie March's (ADA Alex Cabot) makeup from a very polished and conservative look that I realized was getting lost behind her glasses to a makeup that didn't contour her lid at all but instead concentrated all the oomph on making her eyes pop with a single pale shell shimmer as the only thing on her lid and a fierce lashline. She sparkled. And it came to me just before my heavy lids overpowered my "vision" and I drifted off to beauty sleep.

Pro Palettes

As someone who often has to schlep her makeup kit (a.k.a. her livelihood) around from job to job, I value products that are concise and condensed. A palette that contains 20 different shades of foundation is much more portable than packing 20 different bottles. Or a palette with 15 different neutral eye shadows that can be mixed to create a wide variety of looks is more efficient than a bag of individual shadows. This being said, it is hard to find palettes full of useful products. You know what I mean: you buy a palette around the holidays and in a few months a couple of shades are worn through to the bottom but the others are untouched. Whether you are a pro or a makeup aficionado who likes to do her friends up, the following are a few of the palettes that I can throw in a bag and feel fully supplied:

RCMA Foundation Palette
-Tops for being able to mix and match any skin tone. Its creamy but not greasy consistency means it works with almost anyone. Not particularly glam but very, very helpful.

Viseart Eyeshadow Palette
-The neutrals in this palette lend itself to creating any look - from beauty to special effects. Highlight, shadow, fill in eyebrows, smoke out an eye or even use the greys and brick shades to make someone look tired or slightly bruised. I literally always carry it with me in case of a makeup emergency!

Lorac Croc Palette
-For some reason this eyeshadow/blush combination of warm, shimmery pinks, bronzes and a deep brown works on everyone. I don't know why, I don't question it, I just use it.

Sephora Brand Harmony Palette
-Soft nudes and pinks that you can mix and match to achieve any shiny nudie mouth for anybody.